We arrive in Yachats, Oregon, in time for another birthday celebration🎉 This time the birthday sparkler is in a local crab cake. Delicious🎈
Leaving Tu Tu Tun Lodge
Day 7, Monday, we're at 924 miles, and we're heading out at 11:20. We are slowcoasting now. No doubt about that. Google tells us it's 3 hrs 13 minutes, 153 miles to Yachats. It'll take us slow-coasters longer than that!
Slowcoasting
Slowcoast is a motto for California's central coast. However, by Day 7 we've finally eased into a road trip state of mind, and slow coasting works for us.
Usually by 9:15 we're out and on the road. This morning we're lollygagging. It's 11 and I'm meandering on the beach, looking for beach stones. Ed is walking along the edge of the Rogue River, accessing its fishability.
At breakfast several couples commented on how lucky we are that we have no timeline, no deadline.
In fact, today we had thought we'd drive all the way to Cannon Beach. The receptionist said that was too far, so on her suggestion we're going half the distance to Yachats.
What also makes this changing of plans at the last minute possible is that we're doing this dreamy drive in offseason.
Peak
On the road trip Ed's been reading PEAK:Secrets from the new science of expertise by Zander's Ericsson and Robert Pool.
I'm sitting by the fire in our gorgeous suite, and I see that book, and I'm thinking the folks who run this place--Tu Tu Tun Lodge--have mastered the idea of peak as it relates to the hospitality industry. Good for them, and lucky for us!
Day 7
Yesterday afternoon we checked into Tu Tu Tun Lodge on the Rogue River. Think Frank Lloyd Wright meets Zen.
The receptionist explained there was something wrong with the hot water in our room. I'm thinking, Oh, no. No hot shower for us. Then she said, So we've upgraded you to a suite.
The Chinook suite is as large as some homes. It is totally comfortable--from the large soaking tub outside on the deck, to the fireplace in the sitting area, to the scrumptious bed. And it looks directly out on the Rogue River.
When I read the activities they offer--from fly-fishing, jet boats, golf, hiking,horseback riding--I wished we had some of our grandchildren here to play with us.
We asked if we could stay longer, but they are closing the lodge today to resurface the driveway.
What a heavenly spot.
Babe was with us.
Paul Bunyan's blue ox was called Babe.
Fern Canyon
On the way to Fern Canyon...
Day 6
Sunday, April 17. We start out from Arcata at 771 miles. We mosey up the coast a few minutes for breakfast on the pier in Trinidad. Just before the pier a club of kayakers are putting in.
it's a splendid morning. The kind where the sun is sparkling diamonds on the sea.
Before we arrived here for breakfast at the Seascape Restaurant we stopped for a few items at a grocery store. The burly guy in front of us had already done some husky shopping--cases of beer, tubs of Cool Whip, Bologna, hot dogs. Farm to table was not on his Sunday menu.
The Giese Family Back Story about Road Trips
In "Lessons from Babe," my quirky mother-daughter memoir, I also write about family road trips.
Some good, most not so good.
When I was about 5, "travel" meant that Babe and Dad and my brother and I piled into my father's Blackhawk Studebaker and headed out from Seattle to somewhere modest--like Astoria, Seaside, or Portland.
I grew to hate those trips. Mile after mile my brother and I were stuck in the back seat, probably bored out of our little minds. One day my father must have asked us to behave, to stop quarreling. To cut it out! Apparently, we didn't stop, or I didn't. Because Dad pulled the car over to the shoulder of the road, and demanded that I get out. Get out? He was going to teach me a lesson. Some lesson. There I was, a 5-6 year old, probably in a white lacy pinafore, tight golden ringlets, dumped on the shoulder of the road, and my father sped away? Abandoned, I cried, screamed, shrieked, shouted, yelled for them to COME BACK! The black car grew smaller and smaller in the distance. As an adult I spent years in therapy trying to understand that incident. My therapist said it was probably the root of my anxiety attacks, and feelings of panic. No kidding.
No wonder I was never big on road trips, right? I successfully avoided them most of my life. A road trip was my idea of hell on earth. I took airplanes. I flew places. On the other hand, my brother and my mother loved road trips. As Babe got older, my brother would drive, and Babe would sit there happy as could be, the road whirling by at 60 mph. As my brother said, "Babe never complained."
Then I met Ed. Our first road trip was to Big Sur. We'd known each other only a few weeks, and I wanted to show my new love, who was new to the West Coast, the magnificence of Big Sur. (Hiking in Big Sur had been my salvation after my husband died.) Our second road trip was from my place in Southern California to his place in Montana. In December. Not the best time for propitious road conditions. We'd known each other only 3 months and it was still that glowy time in a love affair when everything is golden and sparkly and fresh. So I was game and it didn't matter that there was a road closure because of snow in Salt Lake City, or another total road closure in Idaho Falls. The snow drifts blowing across the freeway were exciting and dramatic. In Idaho Falls we detoured to a wine bar with a cozy fireplace. Eventually we made it to Bozeman in time to set up the Christmas tree before Ed's entire family arrived to check out his new girlfriend.
So when Ed requested this West Coast Road Trip for his birthday celebration, I had some serious reservations. Would it be too long to be stuck in a car? Or would it be just right? We don't quarrel, and we have GPS, and destination assist, but what if I just couldn't hack it? The mile-after-mile tedium of my childhood road trips?
Ed's argument was that we kept flying off to exotic places--Tanzania, Hanoi, Casablanca--yet he'd never driven up the West Coast past Big Sur. For my Kentucky, Chicago, Washington, D. C. husband the West Coast of the United States seemed as exotic and mysterious as any foreign destination I could suggest. And as air travel has become such a hassle the old-fashioned freedom of the open road seemed downright alluring and modern. It would be just us and where we wanted to go, when we wanted to go. No rude TSA people barking at us, no lines to board the car in order of our elite status.
So far, we've completed 5 days, we're sharing the driving, and as Ed says, "We're having fun!" We're seeing new places, everyone speaks English, more or less, and we're staying in exotic places like the Best Western in Arcata. The only thing that would make it better is if Babe were with us.
Nite 5
The Arcata Best Western exceeds expectations. The landscaping is lovely. Someone cares, and it shows.
Nite 5
Eddie's Birthday Dinner continues... at SALT in Arcata, California. 🚗🚗🚗🚗
The Best Birthday Present
There have been many "bests" on our road trip: the dinner at Cavallopoint looking out on the Golden Gate Bridge; the "Oh, my God! sea vistas on highway 1; strolling the windy cliffs at the Inn at Newport Ranch.
But to me the very bestest best are the redwoods! Walking on the spongy soft ground, and looking up, up, up into the green canopies. It is an amazing experience. It might sound corny, but it feeds the soul, quiets the brain, and satisfies the senses like nothing else.
A favorite book about the redwoods is The Wild Trees by Richard Preston.
Founders Grove cont cont
Both of us have seen redwoods, but we've never seen anything like this. And it's shhhh-quiet and totally peaceful.
Founders Grove
Save the ancient Redwoods. In 1931 Naturalists convinced the Highway Commission not to bulldoze these trees. Thanks god.
My Giant
My Giant amongst the giants. What's fascinating is that there is no one else here. It is absolutely silent. In the summer I bet it's different.
The Ultimate Playground
We know some kids who would love to play here.
Doesn't feel like California
Ed and I agree that this area doesn't feel like we're in California anymore. It feels so back country, such a throwback to the 50s.
We're exiting now to the Avenue of the Giants. Driving thru the redwoods!
Now We're Cooking!
A real tourist stop--The Legend of Big Foot.
Eel River Cafe
Following Big Brother's suggestion--less driving, more stops. In Garberville.
Eel River Cafe
For lunch! Old-fashioned soda fountain.